Beware The Greeks?

Bloody Greeks . .

Greece-debt-crisis-Kipper-003. . living beyond their means; sponging off everyone else. Lazy bastards got everything they deserve coming to them!

So runs the mainstream media around much of Europe but particularly in Germany where the hard working and fiscally frugal natives see Iron Chancellor Merkel’s handing over of ‘their’ hard-earned savings to the dissolute Greeks as nothing short of insanity – she is unlikely to win re-election as a result.

Has the mainstream media shaped your view of the pampered and spoilt Greeks as it had mine? If you are feeling less than sympathetic to that nation’s plight can I respectfully ask you to read on – you might be as shocked and appalled as I was when I learned the truth.

To those of you who ask what all this has to do with ‘Archers – living, loving and travelling Turkey’ I answer ‘They are our neighbours, they are in desperate straits and, if nothing else, they deserve our understanding.’

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the Führer bailing  out his mate

In October 1940, His Arrogance Il Duce Benito Mussolini dragged Greece into WW2 by invasion of its territory. After six months of humiliation and certain defeat at the hands of the tiny Greek army supported by a rag-tag resistance movement Hitler bailed his Axis partner by invading the country in April 1941.

Greece was looted and devastated like no other under German occupation. The International Committee of the Red Cross estimated that between 1941 and 1943 at least 300,000 Greeks died of starvation as a direct result of German plundering. Even Il Duce was appalled when he complained to his foreign minister ‘The Germans have taken from the Greeks even their shoelaces’.

Germany and Italy, in addition to charging Greece outlandish ‘occupation expenses’, obtained by force an ‘occupation loan’ of $3.5 billion. Hitler himself recognised the legal nature of this loan and had given orders to start the process of repayment. After the war ended, at the Paris Conference of 1946, Greece was awarded $7.1 billion by way of war reparations in addition to the repayment of the ‘occupation loans’.

Italy repaid its share of the occupation loan; Italy and Bulgaria paid war reparations to Greece. Germany paid war reparations to Poland in 1956 and to former Yugoslavia in 1971. Greece demanded repayment of the occupation loan in 1945, 1946, 1947, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1974, 1987 and in 1995. Germany has consistently refused to pay its obligations to Greece arising from the occupation loan and war reparations. In 1964, German Chancellor Erhard promised repayment of the loan after reunification, which happened in 1990 – Greece is still waiting.

To give some idea of the scale of German obligations to Greece consider the following: using an interest rate linked to an average for US Treasury Bonds since 1944 of 6% it is estimated that the current value of the occupation loan is $163.8 billion and that for war reparations is $332 billion – that’s a combined total as of July 2011 of 575 billion euros that Germany owes to Greece!

It wasn’t just ‘even their shoelaces’ that was taken from the Greeks. During WW2 Greece lost 13% of its population, some from fighting but most from famine and war crimes. The Germans murdered the populations of 89 Greek villages and towns, burned to the ground 1,700 villages with many of their inhabitants executed; the country was reduced to rubble and its antiquities and treasures looted.

epa01561027 A file photo reportedly taken on 10 June 1944 by an anonymous German soldier shows German occupation troops in the ransacked south-central Greek town of Distomo, Thebes prefecture, shortly after 218 local residents were executed as part of Nazi reprisals for the activity of partisans in the area. An appellate court in Florence, Italy, on 25 November 2008 ruled that a verdict handed down by Greek first instance court ordering the German state to pay 50 million euros in damages to victims' families is valid. A constitutional court ruled in 1992 that cases involving Nazi massacres or mass executions can be tried in Italy, regardless of whether the crime was committed in a third country.  EPA/STR BLACK AND WHITE ONLY
town of Distomo 10th June 1944 (German troops in front of buildings set ablaze in Distomo, during the massacre.
Location: Distomo, Kingdom of Greece (under German-occupation)
Date: 10 June 1944 Deaths: 214
Perpetrators: 4th SS Polizei Panzergrenadier Division

Next time you see or read of Merkel’s demands for more Greek belt tightening, more austerity, remember that if her government coughed up and met its obligations as it is legally required to do there wouldn’t be any sponging Greek wasters out on the streets. There wouldn’t be any more Greek suicide deaths to add to the war time total either.

Alan Fenn, Okçular Köyü

ps if you were surprised to learn these facts, put yourself in the shoes of all those decent people in Germany who have also been kept in the dark. Politics is a dirty game. There is a petition by Greek academics to call on Germany to make good on its obligations.

Radio Ga-Ga

There was a time when radios really were radios – calling them a ‘wireless’, as we invariably did back then (the 40s and 50s), was a total misnomer because there was more wire in a wireless than could be found on the beaches on ‘D Day’! Why we don’t call these modern, sleek, solid-state, ‘wireless’ radios a wireless is beyond me. Must be a generational thing!

gaga1Anyway, what got me started on this line of thought was this – I was rummaging through some of my bits and bobs when I came across the story of a certain Nusret Berişa. Mr Berişa used to run a radio repair business from his workshop in the back streets of the Balat district in İstanbul. Mr Berişa was also a survivor from the long vanished age of steam radio. I say was because my notes are more than ten years old and this usta (craftsman) was of mature years even then. He would have nothing whatever to do with transistor radios – they were beneath contempt and, when broken, worthy of nothing more than the dustbin. The shelves of his workshop were stacked with old radios, some for sale, some awaiting repair. Alongside them were neatly stacked boxes of single and double-ganged tuning capacitors and dusty, fly-blown boxes of thermionic valves – you know, those things that look like strangely shaped light bulbs with equally strange names like ‘double diode triode’.

But I’m digressing, as normal; what I really want to talk about and show you is one of my most prized possessions after J, of course – my RCA Victor AR88 LF.

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this is my RCA Victor AR88 LF – a few mods over the years but only one repair – excuse the dust!
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WW2 underground naval comms centre Portsmouth AR88 to left

Built in 1936 in Montreal, Canada it was one of many that were confiscated from radio enthusiasts and shipped to Britain during the war to be used for radio surveillance and eavesdropping on enemy communications. In its many variations it found its way onto ships, submarines and planes; they were even shipped to Russia and China (before they too became the enemy). Those who know about these things describe the AR88 as the greatest communications receiver ever built and as I gaze at the battered, black-crackle front panel with its glowing dials of my beauty, who am I to disagree?

I acquired ‘her’ from a boffin who used to work for the UK Government Communications HQ in Cheltenham. He used to come into my village pub for a few beers and a chat as he went steadily bonkers – he gave me the radio one day and then disappeared.

When J and I moved lock, stock and barrel to Turkey the old girl came too, and I bet the removal guys remember her well because it took two of them to move her around safely.

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wireless?

Call me an old geek, but thirty five or more years on from the day she came into my life, I still can’t resist the urge on a dark winter evening to turn her on, twirling her knobs while she warms up a bit before gently lifting her lid to admire the amazing sight of her valves glowing orange and blue and yellow. As the sound of the RF begins to gently hum and buzz and the logs crackle in the hearth, I start to tune through the airwaves, ever hopeful that I’ll hear the opening announcement for ‘Much Binding In The Marsh’ or the sinister music of ‘Journey Into Space’.

Those were the days!

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called to arms 1943
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de-mobbed and back in civvy street circa 1954

For those of you who arrived here expecting rather more than a load of old twaddle about a radio here’s Queen performing at their very best – enjoy!

Alan, not really of this world.

‘vive la différence’

With my wanderings hampered by wonky knees I’m left with the relative confines of my immediate area – but what an area and what wonders. This from a short walk a few days ago – may it give you as much pleasure as it gave me.

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this and the rest are mostly Anemone coronaria in the rain

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And next, because a surprise should always be offered when possible, is a first for Okçular.

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Anemone heidreichii (the very pale pink on the surface and the light pink on the outside are indicative of this species) believed to be endemic to Crete this is something of a find

Alan in Okçular

 

The Mosaics Of Antakya

antak1J and I found Antakya, the principal city of Hatay, SE Turkey, to be an astonishingly cosmopolitan place. Laid back, Istanbul fashions everywhere, and barely a headscarf to be seen. The old parts of the town are not extensive but are a delight to explore – the people, as everywhere in Turkey, are open and warm-hearted. If that is not enough for you then there is always the local speciality dessert, Künefe.

Künefe can be found all over Turkey, but the stuff that masquerades under that name elsewhere pales into mediocrity when compared with the real thing that is served in Antakya. Although künefe shops are very common throughout Hatay, Kilis, Adana, Mersin and Gaziantep provinces, Antakya is known for the best künefe in Turkey. What distinguishes Antakya’s künefe from others is the freshly made, elastic cheese that only comes from Hatay region. The kadayıf (shredded phyllo dough) is also made from scratch at small künefe shops on almost every corner in Antakya. Watching it being made is a form of street entertainment in its own right!

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Sitting at a künefe shop, observing the world walk by whilst savouring a plate of this wondrous stuff, topped off with ice cream, should be high on your ‘bucket list’ – in fact, it is almost worth dying for! Almost!

antak3Anyway, enough of that! This post is about feeding the mind, not the belly; and just across the river from where J and I were stuffing ourselves lies the rather sad looking Museum of Archaeology. Had we not had an inkling of what lay inside we might well have given it a miss and that would have been a mistake. There are the usual marble tombs, busts and statues of long departed emperors, governors and their ladies – gods and goddesses, nymphs and shepherds (coming away), etc. There is also one of the most remarkable collections of Roman wall and floor mosaics to be found outside Ankara or Rome.

Here are just some of them together with a bit of information about what you are looking at. The pictures are not the greatest as there was a ‘no photography’ policy at the time and trying to be discreet with an SLR is not easy! I have ‘enhanced’ some to bring out the colours more, otherwise they are ‘as is’.

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Oceanus & Thetis – 4th cent. ME – Daphne one of the most photographed mosaics ever
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Iphigleneia in Aulis (detail) – 3rd cent. ME – Antioc. Iphigleneia, daughter of Agamemnon with her mother
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The Happy Hunchback (one can see why) – 2nd cent. ME – Antioc
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Hercules Strangling Serpents – 2nd cent. ME – Antioc
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Personification of Soteria (Salvation) – 5th cent. ME – Narlıca, Antakya. This is an astonishing mosaic in the Escher-esque effect of the geometric shapes
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Narcissus & Echo – 3rd cent. ME – Daphne
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Narcissus & Echo (detail bottom left corner)
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Boat of the Pysches (with Eros) – 3rd cent. ME – Daphne
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Orpheus and the Beasts – 3rd cent ME – Tarsus

. . and so many more! To finish off, here’s a couple of general shots around town.

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Antakya backstreet

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. . not to mention one of those marble tomb things!
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. . and finally, a pair of basalt lions from the Temple at Tainat – 8th cent. BME

Alan in Okçular

İshakpaşa Sarayı

isak1Here we go on another of those ‘Tardis’ time trips; this time back to the year 2003 of the Modern Era (as we have to say now). J and I were touring around the east of Turkey with our kaymakam ‘son’ and his very new and very delightful wife.

Now, being a kaymakam is a lonely old job because, mostly, people only want to know them for what they can get out of them, and the others, who aren’t trying to extract favours, generally hold them in awe – a hangover from Ottoman times. This has created a Freemason-like fraternity with fellow kaymakams which necessitates plan-ahead phone calls and stops to socialise in every town along the route. It also results in very protracted journeys!

So it was that, later than we had expected, we were sitting in the rather imposing office of the kaymakam of Doğubayazıt in Ağrı Province sipping tea and making polite conversation. Ağrı, way over in the east of Turkey, is home to Mount Ararat, the supposed remains of Noah’sArk, the principle border crossing with Iran, a superb bazaar and the magnificent İshakpaşa Sarayı (Palace). Joining us in the sipping was a goggle-eyed Jandarma commander and a scantily clad, over-made up and very big-breasted actress and her hippy-looking Turkish ‘minder’. She was dressed (I remember vividly) in black leggings and a day-glow pink top with ‘Love Me’ emblazoned across her rippling undulations. We saw her later causing traffic pile-ups as she wandered about town; this is, after all, a rather conservative part of the country where most of the women we saw were clad from head to ground in black or brown chaddars/chadors – but that is a story for another time!

isak2The kindly kaymakam had enquired about our plans and our mode of transport (my trusty Doblo) and had hurrumphed at its short-comings in such terrain. ‘This is an important town with much diplomatic comings and goings’ he informed us. ‘I have several 4x4s why don’t you use one of those? In fact, you might as well have my driver as well, he knows the way around.’

So, there we were, travelling up to the iconic site of İshakpaşa Sarayı in a huge Shogun type 4×4 (like the picture) complete with blue flashing lights. We made a very grand and very self-consious arrival! A group of tourists stepped back as the guardian and his staff lined up to greet these so-obviously important visitors – J and I felt like total frauds and total prats!

Our ‘son’ was grinning from ear to ear, enjoying every bit of our discomfiture! Over time we have learned to go-with-the-flow, as we keep our ‘respect for everybody’ head firmly on our shoulders; back then we were still struggling to deal with such situations.

The undeniable bonus of having ‘connections’ is that J and I have seen and been to places that we otherwise might have missed. At İshakpaşa we were given a personal tour by the principal guardian who was extremely knowledgable. We were also taken to parts of the site that were closed to the public whilst renovations were being undertaken. Completed in 1784, it is the last of the great Ottoman administrative outposts from the so-called ‘Lale Devri’ period to be constructed. It is, without doubt, a true gem and a very important and distinguished architectural relic of its period. All-in-all, an impressive place!

Once again my scanner has done its bit by converting my old 35mm pics into digital format – here are some impressions from this ‘must-see’ site in the beautiful, historic and culturally very rich east of Turkey.

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iconic view of İshakpaşa Sarayı with Doğubayazit below and Mt Ararat in the distance
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entrance to reception rooms

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Grand Entrance detail
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astonishing wooden ‘dragon heads’ on exterior wall
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view to a courtyard
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2010 after superb restoration work
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family mausoleums not dog kennels
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finally the clouds cleared enough to reveal Mt Ararat

Alan in Okçular

You Couldn’t Make It Up!

You really couldn’t!

trfpol1J and I were on our way up here to the cabin when we, along with others, were pulled over by the traffic police for a routine document check. It’s so routine here in Turkey that we expect it and are delighted when we are waved through and not over. In our more than 20 years of driving here we have been meticulous about all or documents and paperwork being in order because we really don’t want to fall foul of the bureaucracy here.

So it was with total disbelief that we faced the officer when he said there was a problem and that our mandatory third-party insurance was not on the police computer. We knew it had been dealt with back in December along with the fully comprehensive on the car and the house, contents and earthquake insurance – we knew it was done! There had been something about a delay with that piece of paperwork at the time but it’s not a problem because it goes onto the police computer immediately.

The two traffic cops could see that we were confused and adamant that it had been paid so they waited while we called our bank. More confusion for us so they spoke with the bank – even more confusion. Meanwhile, in desperation, I phoned our ‘son’ who a) is a ranking bureaucrat and b) speaks perfect English – could he help us understand what was going on. If this was not sorted our car would be impounded, put on to a low-loader and taken away with all the expense that that incurred.

He spoke with the police officer.

I want you to understand something here that throughout this incident the police were amazingly patient and polite. They explained again that whatever had happened at the bank the bank had not paid and obtained the mandatory policy for us. The bank had made a mistake but we were responsible for the vehicle. They said that our ‘friend’ (the bureaucrat) had asked them to help us if they could and they wanted to. So it was that one of the officers contacted an insurance agency, gave them all the necessary information and then asked for our credit card. That was a problem because we don’t have a credit card, only a debit card, so the payment couldn’t be accepted.

Deadlock!

Well, not quite yet. Did we have enough in cash the officer asked – we did. ‘Problem solved’ he said – or words to that effect as he pulled out his own credit card and completed the transaction. We were flabbergasted! Speechless! These guys didn’t know us from Adam and were, after all, traffic policemen and everyone knows that these types are total, unmitigated arses. Bastards to a man and of such evil motivation that they are reputed to nick their own grandmothers given an opportunity! Give them a motorbike and they hunt in ravening packs à la France and Thailand. Yet here they were helping out two soppy old farts who, in their confusion, had made a cock-up with their car insurance.

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Thai motorcycle cops

As we thanked them they smiled broadly, shook our hands and asked us to let their bosses know that they had done their jobs to our satisfaction. Just one more thing one of them said, we should wait for a few minutes before leaving on our journey. In short order his phone rang and he walked over to show us the image of our new insurance on the police computer. Technology is amazing and so are some really decent people who hide inside traffic police uniforms! They didn’t even impose the usual fine that goes with this type of ‘oversight’.

Once on our way J phoned our bureaucrat ‘son’ and told him about the policeman using his credit card, he was amazed! She thanked him and asked what he had said to the policeman. He laughed, ‘I just told them you were nice people and they should help you if they could’. So we are but even so you really couldn’t make this up!

Alan up at the cabin

Akdamar – A Name Carved Into History

ak1Join me as we slip back to a time before (I had) a digital camera – it is Spring; the year is 2003 and we are aboard a small boat heading for the island of Akhtamar, or Akdamar that lies 3 kms out into Lake Van in Eastern Turkey.

First, a little background: Once, Akhtamar lay at the heart of the Kingdom of Armenia – here was built a royal complex that included palaces, gardens, parks and a monastery. King Gagik commissioned a church dedicated to the Holy Cross and employed the Armenian architect Trdat Mendet aka Manuel to oversee the work. Manuel had built the cathedral at Ani and had assisted in the repair of Hagia Sophia’s dome following an earthquake. Construction started in 915 and was completed by 921. What Manuel created was quite remarkable!

Aghtamar_1923The Church of the Holy Cross was the seat of Armenian patriarchs from 1116 until 1895 when it was abandoned due to ‘difficulties’ between Armenians and the Ottoman Empire. The church fell into disrepair – in 1951 there was a concerted effort to demolish the complex – fortunately the total destruction was prevented by an observant military officer and an enlightened minister in Ankara. Today, all that remains is the church.

akdamar2In 2005-6 the Turkish government carried out a programme of restoration and the church was opened as a museum in 2007. In 2010 the first mass in 95 years was celebrated and in the same year the cross was replaced on the dome.

When J and I paid our visit the restoration lay 2 years in the future and I was using my clapped-out Pentax 35mm film camera – digital cameras and Photoshop were something from a Star Trek script! So, here you have it courtesy of a scanner – my Akhtamar photo album . .

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Akdemar in Spring
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 entrance to Akdamar church
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Akdamar church interior detail

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Akdamar church – David and Goliath relief
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Akdamar church – front facade
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Akdamar church – detail

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Akdamar church 2003 pre-restoration
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J, our ‘son’ and ‘daughter-in-law’ heading home

Sorry for the poor quality of the photos – old technology! Here is a more recent photo after restoration work:

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restored and once again used for worship

Alan in Okçular

ps The origin and meaning of the island’s name is based on an old Armenian legend. According to the tale, an Armenian princess named Tamar lived on the island and was in love with a commoner. This boy would swim from the mainland to the island each night, guided by a light she lit for him. Her father learned of the boy’s visits. One night, as she waited for her lover to arrive, he smashed her light, leaving the boy in the middle of the lake without a guide to indicate which direction to swim. His body washed ashore and, as the legend concludes, it appeared as if the words “Akh, Tamar” (Oh, Tamar) were frozen on his lips.

Isn’t that sweet?

A Stitch In Time . .

Cat1. . an appropriate title for a trip back in time to 2004. J and I were on one of our periodic wanderings around the east of the country; Erzurum in general and the ‘almost’ town of Çat in particular. ‘Almost’, because the place is only about the size of a village and had to be twinned with another village a few kilometres away to qualify as a town. The photos left give you a good idea of how ‘basic’ the place is.

Before I get back to the appropriateness of the title, Cat2here’s some background. We were there visiting our ‘son’ who was the resident kaymakam with responsibility for an area covering some 30 villages. One of the splendid bonuses on these trips is getting to ‘shadow’ him as he goes about his daily tasks and visits to outlying parts of his ‘empire’.

So it was that we were on our way to a village, where there was a project to raise the status and Cat3earning ability of many of the young women by teaching them skills to do with machine embroidery. There was to be an exhibition and a presentation of certificates and, of course, the inevitable speeches.

Our official car was followed by a convoy of minibuses filled with bureaucrats; most were happy to get some time away from the office, but there were a fair number who were decidedly glum-looking. Knowing the attitude of many of these pen-pushers towards those they consider a lower form of life; our man had instituted a programme that demanded all managers attend any function of this type where they were required to smile and be nice to the people/natives.

In the centre of the village we were met by the muhtar and his delegation – not a woman was to be seen apart from J who is usually deferred to as an honorary man on these occasions. We were escorted to the education building where the young ladies and their teacher, along with all their proud mums, were gathered. The young ladies were dressed in their conservatively elegant ‘Sunday best’, and looked splendid!

Our man’s speech was radical to say the least; he informed the ladies and their men-folk that women were the equal of any man, not least because the Republic said it was so. He also encouraged them to use their new skills to create some financial independence. There was much mumbling by the men and much giggling behind hands by the ladies!

The presentations were made with all of the ‘protokol’ (including J and me) required to take our turn. You could see the reluctance of some bureaucrats to demean themselves (except the boss was watching), until that is, it was time for the group photo.

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‘Congratulations!’ from the Jandarma commander, a lovely fellow, and he meant it
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get thee behind us

The protokol, as is their wont, rushed to the front, smoothing their hair and adjusting their suits, in the process hiding the stars of the day completely! That was too much for J who set about organising the group and, with one persistent exception, bringing the young ladies to the front – possibly a first for Turkey!

Photos done, it was time to view the exhibition of the students’ work and we trooped into the display. A picture is worth a thousand words so I’ll let some photos speak for what we saw; suffice to say that my reaction was to grin like a Cheshire Cat – it had that kind of effect!

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the work is so beautiful – J surrounded by proud family members
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proud student and her work
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shy student, proud family, opportunistic bureaucrat!

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J with a proud teacher and her students

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At one point this young girl brought the room to silence as she sat and sang to us; her voice, I remember, was quite something! ‘Silver Threads and Golden Needles . .’

Alan in Okçular

‘It’s Behind You!’

stonehenge1Sometimes, living as we do in a country stuffed full of biological, historical and geographical gems, a land so overflowing with wonderful, wondrous superlatives, we forget to look around our own ‘backyards’. If you live by the junction of the A303 and A360 trunk roads in Wiltshire (UK), I bet that it wouldn’t take long before you wouldn’t even notice that Stonehenge was there!!

So it was with a delightful little gem of a place in the village of Çandır just across the river from Dalyan.

Candir-road_1Çandır was one of the first places J and I considered when we were searching for a place to call home here in Turkey. It was Christmas Day 1996 when we arrived, shaken and bruised from a grinding drive along broken tracks (it would be several years before anything remotely resembling a road broke through to the village), and we were ready for something to eat and a glass of tea. This photo is of the original road in to the village.

We found no tea house and the only ‘shop’ was a shack in some guy’s back garden opposite the village school. We piled into the shop and scanned the shelves – it was like the old Soviet Union on a bad day – they were bare! ‘Ne var?’ (What have you got?) ‘Beyaz peynir, efendim.’ (White cheese, honoured sir/madam) ‘Ekmek?’ (Bread?) ‘Hayır! Daha sonra traktör gelecek.’ (No! A little later the tractor will come) Our faces must have said it all. We were hungry and thirsty and very dishevelled and an audience of curious locals had gathered – it didn’t take long before the natural hospitality and kindness of our soon-to-be fellow country folk kicked in.

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J tucking into Christmas Dinner 1996 Çandır

We were guided to a table and bench under a tree; newspaper was spread and plates began to appear with bread and a bottle of Fanta from the shopkeeper’s own kitchen, our white cheese and a bag of salted peanuts, olives from someone else and a couple of lemons from the branches above our heads. Whilst we sat chatting and eating a small procession of village ladies came by bearing plates of lokma (Turkish one-bite doughnuts), ‘Hoş geldiniz.’ (Welcome) Tea was brewed and kids from the school came by to practise their English, it was just an ordinary day for them – our exploration of an area turned into an exploration of a village culture that was to capture our hearts. It was also one of the most memorable Christmas Dinners J and I have ever experienced!

Charming as Çandır is, it lost out to Okçular as a place to put down roots due in no small part to its semi-isolation.

Over the years Çandır has changed little; the shack-shop has gone, there’s no shop at all now just a visiting van and the school has closed, a few more houses have been built and the road has changed out of all recognition, but the essential character remains. J and I enjoy walking the forest tracks and the ruins of Kaunos which are close by the village, although we haven’t paid much attention to the centre for some years, we had noted a ‘museum’ sign pointing at someone’s back yard. Recently we took some friends from the US on a ‘jolly’ that included the village and were delighted to discover that the sign really did point to a small folk museum and tea house.

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. . tea and stories
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sorry about the pom-pom hats!

Tea was served and we were treated to tales of this and that – friends from Okçular were recalled and it soon became apparent that they had heard of J and me and knew where we lived. We gave them a copy of the Okçular Book and it was wonderful to see their delight as they realised there were stories in there from and about folks they knew.

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. . more stories

We, and our friends from the US had a wonderful time, relaxing, enjoying countless tales and glasses of tea – it proved the highlight of an already splendid day. If you are visiting or live near Dalyan, then do pop across the river to Çandır and do make a visit to the folk museum and tea house – ‘It’s Behind You’ right opposite the old village school.

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Çandır Folk Museum

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. . lots to interest at Çandır Folk Museum – make sure you pay a visit!

Alan in Okçular

Performing Minor Miracles – The Göle Book Project

gole1Göle is a rather grubby, nondescript little town in Turkey’s Ardahan Province. It was also the scene of a minor revolution that, with a little luck and a fair wind, will have a profound effect on the lives of hundreds of kids.

Before going on, I need to give you some background; from our very earliest days here in our village, J and I have been privileged to know a certain young man. I’ll not embarrass him by revealing his name or his present position in the bureaucracy – suffice to say that when this story was set, he was a Kaymakam, a regional governor. One of his greatest attributes is that he has never forgotten that he is a ‘village boy’!

gole2Kaymakams wield considerable power and control substantial budgets; some use their position to bring real benefits to the areas under their control, whilst a few do little more than collect their monthly pay packets! We have, on numerous occasions, watched ‘our’ man make good on his promise to us that he would always seek to work for the people. We have witnessed countless individuals benefit from acts of relief, and numerous larger projects bring benefits to the wider community. From helping the destitute to setting up an organic food/milk/cheese cooperative; from pioneering environmentally friendly road surfacing (with a South African-Turkish company) to breaking the strangle-hold of monopoly produce buyers; we have seen so much good done.

This is the story of one such project:

The idea was that all of the school children in the Göle region, regardless of age, would be encouraged to take up some serious reading; and not just reading but also discussing with their teachers what the book was about in order to ensure they were understanding and absorbing what they were reading.

As the schools had little by way of reading books, the first task was to seek aid from sponsors in order to create a decent library in every school. Our man achieved this in very short order through the generosity of individuals and companies.

With kids in place and books in place the next objective was to provide an incentive for the children to follow through. This part of the project involved going back to various sponsors and persuading them to cough up the funds for – get this – 500 brand-new bikes for the various age groups that were participating! 500 new bikes! These were to be passed on to the students who worked the hardest at reading and understanding the hundreds of new books now available to them.

It’s a few years ago now that J and I were invited by our man to attend the inaugural presentation day and celebration for the Göle Book Project. We invited ‘Kaptan’ June Haimoff, author, of İztuzu Beach and Turtle fame along for the ride.

gole3On their special day, we joined the children, the media and the many members of the inevitable ‘protokol’ for the presentation of the prizes. As happens every day in Ardahan, it rained, which had no effect whatsoever on the proceedings and on the spontaneous street party that erupted.

The following year the scheme presented a further 500 bikes, and the Minister for Education announced that he wanted the project to go nationwide – some hope of that ever happening – a project like this requires the commitment and focus that is rare amongst the population at large and absent altogether in the political classes!

When the presentations were over and the street party had dispersed, a bunch of bureaucrats and their wives, an army colonel, a TRT film crew, ‘our boy’ and his wife, June, J and I crammed into a few mini-buses and disappeared off into the wilderness for a barby that went on late into the night – a day to remember for everyone – especially the kids of Göle, a small, grubby, nondescript town in the province of Ardahan, NE Turkey.

Here are some impressions from that wonderful event:

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the ‘stars’ begin to arrive
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Göle girls in traditional dress
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. . the boys too
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. . the presentations begin
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Göle Chapter, Hell’s Angels ready to rumble
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Kaymakam Bey leads the troops on a triumphal ride around town
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we are drawn into a bit of spontaneous Turkish line dancing
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Göle, Ardahan – partying late into the night

Alan in Okçular