A Sting In The Tale

DeliveranceI’m from the Isle of Sheppey – a ‘Swampy’! Actually, I need to qualify that; a true Swampy has to be born and (in)bred on the island and my father was a ‘Mainlander’ from Newcastle which means that, although some might disagree, I carry few of the physical or psychological characteristics which were once the mark of the real thing. When I was a kid a Swampy was a thing best avoided by normal folk. Sheppey had a disproportionate number of strange looking people and a disproportionate number of children in special schools or institutions – records are there to be checked! It was a bit like living on the set of the film ‘Deliverance’ but without much hope of escape.

Why am I telling you all this? I don’t know, really. Sheppey actually has a very interesting history strategically placed as it is at the confluence of the rivers Thames and Medway. Swampies have had their fair share of outsiders to put up with.

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St Sexburga, abbey in hand flanked by her saintly sisters

The abbey church at Minster, built by the all-conquering Normans, is dedicated to St Sexburga, a Celtic warrior princess married to King Anna of Kent who, a couple of centuries earlier, took on the marauding Danes and is said to have skinned any captives alive and nailed their hides to the gates by way of an invitation to ‘bugger off’! The king not being up to much she later wandered away and lived as a nun at Ely in Cambridgeshire – as good a reason as any, I suppose, to be made a saint.

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Sheppey also has the distinction of being the only part of the UK, (apart from the Channel Islands 1940-45), to have been occupied by an enemy since 1066. In June of 1667, the Dutch Admiral de Ruyter sailed up the Medway and burned the English fleet at Chatham. He towed off the flagship ‘Royal Charles‘, sailed back to Sheppey and occupied the island for a time before heading home to be immortalised by van Eyck, or was it Rubens?

Horatio, Lord Nelson, bane of the French and darling of the masses kept his bit of skirt by the name of Emma, Lady Hamilton at a hide-away in Queenborough on the island. Queenborough gained its Royal Warrant from Edward III in 1366 because his good lady, Queen Phillippa, took a shine to the place for some reason. Two years later it was made a Royal Borough.

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‘Kiss me Hardy’ – missing Emma

The island’s strategic position meant that it was bound to be heavily garrisoned – as aviation ‘took off’ Shellness and later Eastchurch became home to the Royal Naval Air Service and the Royal Flying Corps (later the Royal Air Force). Short Brothers built the first Wright bi-planes under license here. Lord Brabazon of Tara, holder of the first British pilots licence (1909), and Winston Churchill learned to fly here. Sheerness, the main town, had long been home to the Royal Navy with its dockyard and safe deep-water anchorage. The town was protected by two massive moats and the army was at Garrison Point which commanded the entrance to the Thames and Medway.

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the massive moats protecting ‘Fortress Sheerness’
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Lord Brabazon getting his ‘wings’ 1909
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Short Bro’s S27 an early version of Concorde

History is to be had in bucket-loads; Sir William Penney, ‘father’ of the British atomic bomb was of Queenborough stock and even Rod Hull and Emu came from Halfway (between Sheerness and Minster)!

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told you – strange people come from Sheppey

‘Fascinating!’ I hear you say, ‘But what has this to do with ‘living, loving and traveling Turkey‘? The link, would you believe, is Sheerness Dockyard!

By the time I left school Garrison Point had become a shipping control centre; Shellness was, and remains a naturist/nudist colony; Eastchurch Aerodrome was transformed into the UK’s first open prison and the dockyard had been turned over to a civilian industrial area. I was signed on as an apprentice by an electronics company that was housed in the dockyard’s old rope works, a building that was distinguished as the oldest cast-iron framed structure of its type to be built in Britain. The dockyard was a fascinating place to wander around and so it was that I learned that it housed Europe’s most northerly and the UK’s only colony of scorpions!

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These are a rather docile species called Euscorpius flavicaudis – Yellow–tailed Scorpion, a native of North Africa and Southern Europe. The colony has been known about for several hundred years and was believed to have been imported in cargoes of building material shipped from Italy during the reign of George III. Brown in colour with a yellow tail, they grow up to two inches, live in crevices in brick walls, feed on small insects and can go for months without eating. Their numbers are thought to be well in excess of 10,000 and they are thriving in the warmer weather of the past few years. Once thought to be unique, I know of three other recorded colonies at Portsmouth and Tilbury docks and at Ongar railway station in Essex.

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scorpions glow under ultra-violet light – a beautiful image by Jason Steel

So, from the UK’s relatively gentle and only scorpion species to Turkey’s most common – and a nasty little sod it is too! Meet Mesobuthus gibbosus aka the Mediterranean Checkered or Anatolian Yellow Scorpion. Found all over Turkey, including urban areas, it has a particularly painful sting and can cause a severe reaction in some victims although generally poses no long-term threat to healthy humans. As a general, although not infallible, rule of thumb the more delicate the pincers sported by scorpions the more painful and venomous the sting.

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our very own Anatolian Yellow

With that in mind have a look at this next species – Iurus dufoureius asiaticus – endemic to Turkey and so rare that it has no common name. Formidable as it looks with its powerful pincers it is thought to pose no threat to humans.

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such a rare beauty – enjoy!

This photo was taken in our incredibly biodiverse Kocadere Valley, Okçular in the cool of springtime – this species tunnels deep underground during the hot summer months. It is the largest European (Turkey incl for classification) species, dark brown to black body and paler legs. Little is known about this creature so if you fancy an interesting project . .

From a lone UK species to Turkey’s most common and rarest scorpions – linked by a dockyard, an aerodrome, an emu, the atom bomb, Nelson, a saint and an undisciplined train of thought. Good value, or what?

Alan in Cloud Cuckoo Land!

 

Your Worst Nightmare

Jim-Maxwell-and-GeoffreyThis is the time of year when those not listening to ‘Test Match Special’ with a beer or a glass of spritzer to hand are busy commenting on Facebook about the perennial monster ‘insect’ that spends its life inflicting life-threatening poisonous bites on the unwary or scaring the crap out of the rest of us as it scuttles by at about 10mph (16kph).

I’m talking about Wind Scorpions aka barrel spiders aka camel spiders, or sun spiders after its Latin name Solifugae, which means “those that flee from the sun”. There are around 1000 recorded species around the world. Wind Scorpions look pretty bizarre and pretty dangerous, they are fast movers and they hiss and act extremely aggressively if you happen to piss them off! All of which adds to the urban myths that surround them.

Size: the largest species are around 5-6 inches (12-15 cms) in total length and about 4 inches across the legs and not ‘nearly half a metre’ as indicated by your best friend after a nerve-soothing gin or three!

Speed: they are capable of moving at up to 10 mph (16 kph) which is about a third of the speed of a human sprinter – well worth bearing in mind next time you see one trotting along the balcony rail!

CamelSpiderBitePoisonous: despite what you read or hear they are not – with the possible exception of a species in India. That their bite is extremely painful and the wound liable to secondary infection is without doubt. If you are unlucky enough to get bitten or you suspect that your pet has been bitten get to the vet pronto! Well, you go to the doctor . . !!

Here in Turkey, should you come across one these creatures, it will be Galeodes araneoides, so let’s focus on this particular species. It hails from the same family/class as spiders and scorpions so it is an Arachnida although it sits firmly in its own group. Arachnida have eight legs but Wind Scorpions appear to have ten with the front pair carried off the ground and in front of the creature – rather like some ghoul or an extra in an early ‘Frankenstein’ movie! This impression is going to be reinforced because these ‘ghouls’ hunt by night and hide up in cool, dark places by day.

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Wind-Scorpion – Galeodes-araneoides

Camel-Spider-MawThese extra, front ‘legs’ are highly modified pedipalps (those little finger-like things in front of your average spider’s fangs). They are used primarily as sensing organs but can also act as secondary legs for hunting, fighting and climbing. They also have a sort of sticky-pad that helps entrap prey or grip smooth surfaces. The photo left shows the threat/defence pose.

The ‘jaws’ of these creatures are formidable – well able to pierce the toughest beetle case, chop through reptile or small birds’ bones and go straight through your thumb or toe nail! They are also used to make a ‘hissing’ sound that is a clear warning to leave Galeodes alone or face the consequences.

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I’m warning you!

The close-set eyes are worth a mention as they are anything but as simple as they look. They are well able to discern form and are capable of telling friend from foe.

Meanwhile enjoy a Family Photo Album

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Yellow Sun-spider

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Arizona Sun-spider

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a country picnic for our local Galeodes-araneoides

So, what should you do if you find one of these creatures sharing your home with you? First off, don’t reach for the tin of ‘death spray’ – it will not kill your average adult Wind Scorpion which will take off at a third of the speed of Usain Bolt at his best for some dark place that you will never think to look! Having had a good look at you, Galeodes araneoides will nurture a grudge and a deep, abiding hatred because you used chemical weapons and at a time of its choosing will sneak into your dreams and turn them into your worst nightmare!

Alan in Okçular

ps . . as for what you should do, I suggest you carefully shut the fellow up in a decent sized jam jar then, when no one is looking, sneak out and set it free in the garden of the neighbour you like least!

Ding-Dong Bell!

ding1Back in the dim and distant past in those wild, halcyon days of my youth, I took the Queen’s shilling and signed up to be a parachute soldier. Looking back, me and my mates were like putty in the hands of the training staff as they set about the task of moulding us into something that resembled ‘useful’ and ‘fit for purpose’.

Some of this stuff they drummed into us was ‘biblical’ in nature and profoundly important when you consider that most of us had never lived communally and a ‘bosom-buddy’ was a whole new concept. Apart, that is, from what I’d hoped Stella, who lived three doors away, would let me be without making too much fuss – but I digress. Biblical as in ‘thou shalt not steal’ – ever, end of story! Understood? Good!

That said, as with any good religious doctrine, there is always some wriggle-room – things are seldom as they seem and words can be open to interpretation. So it was that I learned and absorbed the lesson that there are always things that airborne soldiers need that others are unwilling to share or hand over. That being the case these things have to be ‘acquired’ in order to meet said needs. Stealing is a mortal sin, whilst ‘acquiring’ things is a virtue much to be admired and nurtured. Perfectly logical if you think about it for a moment.

And that brings me to the meat of this story which is about ‘acquiring’ a bell, its origins and a fascinating tale of glamour and daring-do.

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. . if you are concerned – you clean it!

I have an original warship’s bell which has been in my possession since the 1960s. The bell carries the name ‘Teazer’ without ‘HMS’ which I understand was normal practice for wartime builds. Its history after removal from the ship goes something like this; at some point in the early 1950s it became the fire bell at the Depot of the Parachute Regiment and Airborne Forces at Maida Barracks in Aldershot. It hung from a tripod outside the guardroom and in those days it gleamed! My first encounter with it was as a young recruit on guard duty.

Later, the Regimental Depot moved from Maida to the modern Browning Barracks with an electrical alarm system. The Provost Sergeant at the time was not an advocate of unnecessary ‘bull’ and the bell was hidden away in the back of a store cupboard. I was posted to the depot Regimental Provost staff in 1967 and succeeded in ‘acquiring’ the bell for ten shillings which was the price for the sergeant to look the other way. Before you start to moralise the bell was ‘acquired’ and not stolen – there is a difference as I’ve already explained!

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HMS Teazer – newly commissioned 1943

Anyway, this ramble has now moved on to a certain HMS Teazer, a Tumult Class destroyer that was commissioned into the 1st Emergency Flotilla in September 1943. She and her crew saw action in the Mediterranean, Aegean, Adriatic and the landings in the South of France in 1944. In 1952 she was converted to a Type 16 frigate before being scrapped in 1965.

So, where does the ‘daring-do’ come into the story? Well, some of you will remember the film ‘Yangtse Incident’ made in 1957 and starring Richard Todd.

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The film tells the true tale of HMS Amethyst, a British warship trapped and shelled by Communist troops in the midst of the Chinese Civil War whilst steaming up the Yangtse to Nanking. Many of her crew were killed and injured and the situation was dire – what followed was the stuff of legends as numerous rescue attempts were made by HM Ships Concord and Consort. The crew laboured to disguise the ship’s outline with timber and canvas and then slipped cable in the dead of night and using a local merchant ship to guide them passed through the shallows under the guns of the PLA forces.

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Teazer at speed 1958 Isle of Arran

In the film, which was made mostly on the Rivers Orwell and Stour on the Suffolk-Essex borders in SE England, HMS Teazer played the role of both Concord and Consort and one of the great moments is the sequence where she is shown turning at full speed and firing broadsides in the narrow confines of the estuary.

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William Hartnell and Sam Kidd -intrepid ‘Tars’ – Hartnell went on to star as the 1st Doctor Who – another link with HMS Teazer

The Yangtse Incident was not Teazer’s only starring role, she went on to feature in ‘Bulldog Breed’ with Norman Wisdom and in ‘Petticoat Pirates’ with Charlie Drake. Then came a mention as the ship of ‘Ben Jackson’, played by Michael Craze, a companion of the first and second BBC Doctor Who series.

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Norman Wisdom starred with HMS Teazer in ‘Bulldog Breed’
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Michael Craze as ‘Ben Jackson’ – Dr Who series 1 & 2

When the war ended the bell that now hangs at my door was removed and was replaced by a peacetime bell that now resides in Macclesfield Town Hall. The town has an association that goes back to wartime fund raising for this ship so it’s fitting that it should be there.

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As for my ‘acquired’ bell, I think it’s fitting that it is hanging just a few miles away from the Aegean where HMS Teazer, a long-forgotten Tumult Class destroyer saw action and lived to tell many more lively tales.

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there have been many incarnations over the centuries – here as a Victorian fast gunboat

Alan in Okçular

ps this is a salveged post from Archers of Okçular July 2013

‘Wow!’ – Ed’s View Whilst Wandering Wild Places

Ed is a new friend who has a deep affinity with our part of Turkey. He is drawn to mountains and wide, open vistas which I understand. Ed is from the US – California to be exact and he says ‘Wow!’ a lot. Then he says it backwards ‘!woW’ which may have more to do with his age and California Dreamin’ than the view!

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(Ed is not so much a ‘new friend’ these days as this was originally posted on Archers of Okçular June 2013)

So it was that J and I offered to take him to one of our favorite ‘!woW’ places where, once upon a time, seldom did the shoes of outsiders tread – Girdev Lake which, at 1800 mts, is a long way up and over Ak Dağ mountain near the small town of Seki, not too far from the Fethiye-Antalya road in SW Turkey. As so often happens with wild, unspoilt places that take a bit of effort to get to, tourism catches on and has the effect of altering or, in some cases, totally messing up what Toprakana-Mother Nature seemed to think was really pretty good in the first place.

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getting to Girdev – how it used to be

Access gets ‘improved’ and before long ways are being found to commodify and exploit the place by upgrading the environment.

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So it is with Girdev which is a sort of crater lake in that it is totally surrounded by mountains. Rain and especially snow-melt feeds the seasonal waters. No rivers flow from the lake and it drains through a sink-hole near the north end before emerging as the Kazanpınar Spring some 18 kms away near Elmalı in Antalya province. Nature’s balance meant that as the lake dried great swathes of wild flowers emerged, particularly Orchis palastris – the Marsh Orchid. Girdev is also home to many different species of birds and insects as well as the great flocks of sheep brought up there each season by the traditional nomadic herders.

That was then, this is now – tourism has come! A permanent ‘camp’ has been built to house those who want to visit this unique place for longer than a day-trip. Nothing wrong with that I say.

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Girdev dam (land of lights)

What is sad is that, pandering to money from those who know no better, a shallow dam has been raised restricting the flow to the sink-hole and creating a permanent lake where one never existed before and this has been stocked with carp. Nature will adapt and species will change – my question is ‘Why does money always have to trump nature?’ There will always be consequences – nomadic herders have lost much of their traditional grazing grounds; to make ends meet will they have to resort to opening restaurants and gözleme (pancake) stalls around the lake? And what about the water quality at Elmalı as tourism expands? That said, Girdev is still yet a lonely and wildly beautiful place – as long as you miss the Jeep safari crowds!

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al fresco lunch – trout a la çoban

Anyway, enough of that, back to Ed and the ‘!woW’ factor. As I said, he loves to photograph vistas which means that getting anywhere can take a while longer than with most people. That said, seeing the familiar through Ed’s fresh eyes was truly refreshing and reinforced the reasons that J and I love this country so much.

So, Ed, we owe you – although I do think that that lunch with a family of herders was ample compensation!

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‘Wow!’
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‘!woW’
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local heading home – no ‘Wow!’ being polite
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Reflections
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half way to the top looking down to the Antalya road – ‘Amazing! !woW’
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chicken coop – ‘Wow! Will you look at that thing!’
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‘Oh, !woW’
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Boffer bugging off
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‘!woW Ed’s Rock’ – and no sign of ‘Mr Ayers’ or Alice come to that – ‘!WOW!’

So, there you have it, a mere drop in a veritable cascade of Ed’s views of this trip to the ‘wild, blue yonder’ of Girdev.

Alan in Okçular

Absolutely Fabulous!

hobbit-menu‘Hobbits!’ I thought as J and I tucked into our second breakfast of the morning – Hobbits, you see, have second everything and breakfast at our hotel was now being followed a couple of hours later by a veritable feast. We were being hosted by a couple of ranking bureaucrats (no names to protect the guilty) who were taking the opportunity to bunk off on the pretext of a public relations junket with ‘important’ visitors from Okçular.

The object of the exercise had been for J and I to spend the day exploring and wandering about in parts of the fabulous Yenice National Park up here in Karabük. I say ‘had been’ because, as sometimes happens here, ‘mission creep’ blunders on to the scene and takes over. As it happens this creeping mission turned into the most wonderful of experiences.

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Orman 1 leads off

Our pair of hookey-playing bureaucrats had brought with them a couple of Orman (Forest Ministry) 4x4s and the renowned chief forester of this world-class chunk of mountainous forest who would be our guide! J and I were each presented with a copy of the excellent official guide book and maps, which we reciprocated with the Okçular book, and then off we set.

Yenice-Book-and-Map

Yenice is a vast, mixed forest set in a land of towering mountains and precipitous canyons. There are rivers and plateaux, scattered villages and upland meadows, ponds and meres. Access roads to the lower villages are reasonable but once above these you are in the land of the 4×4, ‘Shanks’ Pony’, real ponies or even buffalo!

Rhododendrons drip down the mountainsides at this time of year adding bright splashes of colour to the forty-shades-of-green of the trees.

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Ahmet Elbir – Chief Forester and passionate defender of Yenice

Ahmet Elbir, our passionate chief forester and guide, stopped at various places along the road and led us through trackless forest to places that looked out over stunning views and dizzying drops. It didn’t take me long to find my first orchid of the trip.

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as yet unknown orchid

We stopped for a coffee at a newly refurbished traditional wooden house that is being converted to a lodge for walkers and cyclists. Albergo Butik Otel will be open for guests in about a month and I can tell you that J and I will be back sometime soon – they don’t have a website up yet but you can get info at Yenice kaymakam’s site.

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always a good idea to check the bathroom!

Back on the track the 4x4s were soon demonstrating why they are essential tools for the guardians of this forest. There is so much water flowing that many parts of the route are a mud bath – in fact, such is the terrain that much of the logging that is done relies on teams of buffalo to get the timber out.

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We slithered, bounced and ground our way upwards until, around a bend in the track, a great, area of upland meadow opened up to us. Cows and sheep grazed and kangal dogs kept watch against bears (which some of the party had spotted lower down), lynx, wolves and human intruders. We debussed and wandered a short distance to the temporary homestead of a herding family who, forewarned, were to be our hosts.

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Greeted like long-lost cousins we were soon tucking into warm, fresh-baked bread, home-made cheese, salad, ayran, chilled spring water and lashings of tea.

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J with our generous hosts
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lashings of ginger beer!

A great platter of fresh woodland fungi was produced with the promise that this would be cooked up and served with more fresh bread after we returned from our hiking/wandering.

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WOW man! – then say it backwards WOW!

Hiking up the gentle slope I was soon distracted and side-tracked by swathes of orchids and violets, a species of arum and a number of other plants that will have to wait until I get home to my reference books for identification. Such is the geography of this vast forest that  micro-climates and various eco-systems abound – the diversity is mind-boggling!

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unknown Arum – not vulgaris
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another unknown orchid (as yet)
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pale blue violets
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the seed pods of the hellibore
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Muscari – and there was so much more

Back at our host’s encampment we were soon tucking into a mound of succulent fungi, fresh bread and tea. We were joined by the matriarch of the family and a splendid time was  spent with much chat, laughter and hugging that is such an endearing quality of Turkish country folk.

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truants, forester, shepherd hosts and a tourist (serious faces aside we had a great time)

Later, as we slid and bounced our way back down to the less civilised civilised world, J and I were left with the warm glow of gentle kindness, our cameras full of reminders of sights and things.

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it was a wild ride back down – this was the view through my eyes as well!

It has been one of the most absolutely fabulous days ever and we have our two truant bureaucrats, our celebrated chief forester, their drivers and a generous family of mountain shepherds to thank for the experience – Oh! and Toprakana – Mother Earth, of course!

Alan in Okçular

ps since this post from Archers of Okcular was posted May 2013 this amazingly beautiful place has been under threat of a hydro-electric dam project. I guess over the retired body of Chief Forester Ahmet Albir!

In The Beginning Was The Word

Sixty years ago, in the middle of my newt, slow-worm and birds’ nesting period, I was ‘introduced’ to two amazing images that left indelible impressions and a passion that has lasted to this day.

alhambraThe first was of the classic view of the Lion Courtyard at la Alhambra and the second was of Arabic calligraphy. The impact of those images kindled a fire that smouldered over the years. I determined that one day I would spend time at the Alhambra and some ten years ago we had an emotional reunion. Here in Turkey, with its history and tradition of calligraphy, I have been able to enjoy and indulge my passion for the Arabic script with visits to exhibitions and some modest collecting.

J and I were in Istanbul recently to visit with friends and take in a couple of exhibitions, we added the Sakip Sabancı Müzesi in Emirgan to the list because of its fantastic collection of Arabic calligraphy and books. The museum is housed in and around the former family mansion and the rooms and beautiful gardens give a fascinating insight into the life and lifestyle of the Sabancıs.

The astonishing private collection of calligraphy and books is exhibited in an extension to the old house that brings you the very latest concepts in display – the Sabancı Museum is a very classy place indeed. There is also a classy entrance fee policy (in my opinion) which gives free admission to ‘wrinklies’ over 65 and there’s a classy restaurant to boot!

All-in-all this is a really worthwhile place to visit – here are a few full-frontal photos of my passion/obsession – maybe they will turn you on too!

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beautiful example of the calligrapher’s art
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‘Priceless’ in every sense
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illuminated Qur’ân
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iPad video showing the craftsman at work
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‘Besmele-i Şerif’ by Nesrin Şatır (my collection)
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by Tuğrakes Hakkı Bey (1873-1946) Fine Art repro from my collection
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tuğra of Sultan Muhmud II by modern master İsmet Ketin on raw silk (my collection)
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Berat or citation period of Abdulhamit II (my collection)
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original by modern master İsmet Ketin signed and dated 1992 (my collection)
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a naive tuğra of Şehzade Ahmed by young calligrapher Bahçet Dinger (my collection)

. . and finally the star of my collection – an original page of the Holy Qur’ân dated approx 1630-40.

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a precious piece of history

Alan in Okçular

A Rose By Any Other Name

r1Last week I was rambling on about wandering over the mountains and getting overly excited about a huge stick of ‘asparagus‘ that I’d discovered. In my sweaty, fevered state I’d convinced myself that it must be the biggest tongue orchid anyone had ever seen and vowed to return this week to check it out once it had flowered.

Two things came to mind this morning; well, three actually: 1 – I should check my reference stuff more thoroughly; 2 – I should keep my mouth shut until I know what I’m talking about (a point J makes often); 3 – J can be a hard taskmaster in an ‘Onwards and Upwards’ sort of way.

We’d determined to revisit the site on the very steep mountainside by approaching from a different direction. We knew there were no tracks and that footing would be precarious in places – the best we could hope for was a lot of sweat and a goat track to guide us. It proved to be a heart-pounding climb – even J suggested a couple of rests.

On the way we were looking out for other interesting stuff and here are a few photos to break the monotony!

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Orabanche aegyptiaca – Egyptian Broomrape (totally parasitic has no chlorophyll)
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Gladiolus italicus – Field Gladiolus
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Phlomis fruticosa – Jerusalem Sage

Arriving at the site of the ‘asparagus’ I knew right away that keeping ‘schtum’ and checking references (engaging brain before opening mouth) is a good mantra for there were indeed a few that were open including the one in the photo below.

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What we have here ladies and gentlemen is Limodorum arbortivum – the Violet Limodore or the Violet Bird’s Nest Orchid (for some obscure reason). This orchid is interesting in that it has no leaves, lives off decaying matter and is totally dependant upon, but not parasitic of, fungi of the Russulaceae family. It produces the largest seeds of any of the European orchids and the seedlings are very slow to develop staying below ground for 8-10 years before flowering! It is also fairly common and very widespread.

So, an interesting but disappointing find, especially considering the physical effort needed to get to it? Not at all, because there is a twist in the tail (or tale) – as you can clearly see from the photo it is anything but ‘violet’. We have violet near the house and in other places around the area – these specimens are pink. That means that what we have here is a variation or sub-species named Limodorum arbotivum var. rubrum which was only confirmed in 1997 and is spread very thinly on the ground only recorded at 20 other sites in Turkey.

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Now ask me if it was worth the blood, sweat and creaking joints . .

Alan in Okçular

A Bit Of ‘One-Downmanship’

J and I had a glorious ramble up and down the mountain that constitutes our ‘back garden’ today. We’ve learned (after 15 years) that the local distribution range of the Armenian Tulip is much larger than the two little pockets we’d previously found. We’ve added yet another species of orchid to Okçular’s tally – it must be thirty or thirty one now! And seen a ‘seldom seen by casual walkers’ species that’s related to the largest flower in the world.

Although this is a salvaged post from Archers of Okcular 31.3.2013 it is relevant because this is the time to see these beauts.

Here’s a few photos of this mornings wanderings, starting with a bit of inverted ‘one-upmanship’ with our friends Mark and Jolee, kindred spirits from Istanbul.

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Tulipa armena ssp lycica – Armenian Tulips growing wild in the ‘steppes’ of Okçular
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stunning!
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Cytinus ruber – Cytinus, a parasite only on the pink Cistus or Rock Rose; amazing to think it is in the same Rafflesia family as the world’s largest flower
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Raffelesia from Indonesia
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unknown but very beautiful
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Muscari macrocarpum – only all yellow Muscari
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Quince blossom

. . and finally – today’s Star Find . .

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Dactylorhiza romana – Roman Orchid
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Dactylorhiza romana – Roman Orchid – an encore!

Alan in Okçular

I Love To Go A-Wandering

Along the mountain track, and as I go I love to . . tra-la-la! I know what you’re thinking – ‘what is going on here?’ After a desultory one or two posts each week or ten days this bloke is spewing them out like the pubs after a bad night on Sauchiehall Street. Trouble is, without I ‘spew’ this Beauty of Nature stuff a bit quick, you’ll miss it and that would be a shame. It all happens so fast you see.

Okçular is not like a lot of other places – Okçular has an awful lot of amazing stuff to see. Okçular is worth taking the time and trouble to get yourself here and worth putting your walking clogs on and wandering about a bit. Take this morning for example:

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Fritillaria acmopetala (and in the background)

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Fritillaria sibthorpiana (endangered endemic)
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Papaver argemone – Prickly Poppy
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Valeria asarifolia – Valerian
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Bellevalia trifoliata
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Mauremys caspia – Stripe-necked Terrapin
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Ranunculus ficaria – Lesser Celandine

. . below, one of the rarest plants you will ever lay eyes upon . .

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Alkanna mughlae – critically endangered endemic
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Ornithogalum umbellatum – Star of Bethlehem
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Laurus nobilis – Laurel or Sweet Bay

. . and finally, to show I have nothing against orchids . .

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Orchis anatolica – Anatolian Orchid

. . and there’s so much more – better you come and see for yourself. Remember your copy of the Okçular Village Guide – Happy Wandering!

Alan Fenn, Okçular

Sagalassos Rising

It’s at least twelve years since J and I were last in Sagalassos – I remember it well, I was cold and wet and miserable! 1600 metres above sea level up Akdağ in the Toros range it is a city of the clouds. (this salvaged story originally posted on Archers of Okcular in March 2013)

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At least it was until bubonic plague, a couple of earthquakes, problems with water supplies and economic decline led to its demise. It was finally abandoned in the mid 7thcentury CE. When you consider that the place must have baked in summer and drowned in winter its a wonder it lasted as long as it did. Mind you, when its not cloudy, the views are fantastic!

Sagalassos was built by Pisidians who were, to put it mildly, anti-social war mongers and all round bad neighbours. (as I read this five years on with John Bolton now sitting at the right hand of ‘god’ I’m thinking that nothing much changes) It was the second city of Pisidia after Antioch ad Pisidia which lies near the north end of Lake Eğidir in the town of Yalvaç. Known as the ‘People of the Sea’, Pisidians were about as unruly a bunch as could be imagined – troublesome and rebellious. Many came and many tried to incorporate them into this or that empire or kingdom, however they generally left feeling deflated and defeated. Alexander had a bit more luck than most when he captured Sagalassos but Termessos never lowered its ensign and he had to wander off and conquer the rest of the known world by way of a sop to his ego! Eventually they did incorporate into the Roman Empire.

Anyway, again I digress from my storyline – where was I? Yes, twelve years ago we arrived at the site on a miserable, rainy day – the place was awash and deserted apart from the ever-present guardian who collected our entrance fees.

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I have no photo from that time here’s one a couple of years later from  MyTravels2.blogspot.com

In 1990 a Belgian led inter-disciplinary team had taken on the task of excavating the site – there didn’t seem to be very much to show for a decade’s worth of summer holidays spent with trowel and paint brush kneeling in a pool of sweat! In truth, the onset of the sequel to Noah’s flood may have washed away our enthusiasm for much wandering about.

Twelve years on the transformation at this on-going project is amazing!

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Roman baths from processional way – you can clearly see what was above ground

Where once all we saw were a couple of grey old blocks of weathered stone now stands exposed the Roman bath house, uncovered from centuries of debris washed down from the mountains. The Nymphaeum is a triumph of excavation and restoration – even the fountain has been returned to working order!

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superb restoration of Nymphaeum – Antonin’s Fountain

Working on the principle that if at least 80% of the original structure can be pieced together from the bits lying around then a restoration, using some of the most advanced techniques known to science and engineering, will be undertaken, this team is working a minor miracle.

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Emperor Hadrian
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and J with Emperor Marcus for scale

Original sculptures of figures and panels are on display at the award-winning museum in Burdur. Here you will see colossal statues, heads and even sandaled feet of such fine workmanship it will take your breath away.

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The detail is staggering! Where appropriate, exact copies using laser-guided techniques are carved from solid blocks of fibreglass and placed in their original positions at the site. It might seem intrusive, but it works! The mosaics at the Neon Library were closed to us solitary visitors and the amphitheatre remains as is, a pile of blocks waiting for its day.

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Neon Library (best I could do through the grill and no discount on the ticket price!)

Because of its location, Sagalassos was never plundered for building materials – most of the pieces of the jig-saw are still there, scattered by earthquakes and buried by landslip, waiting to be given back their place as the city comes back to life. It represents, perhaps, the finest chance ever for scholars as well as we plebs and peons to gain a real insight into how a Roman era city looked and functioned. I’m really looking forward to 2025 when we make our next visit! Sagalassos – rising indeed!

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detail from Nymphaeum
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‘Dancing Maidens’ Letoon
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digital reconstruction of the city in its prime

Alan in Okçular

ps J and I have been back here often since this was originally posted. Reconstruction continues, safe walkways have been laid down and detailed information boards put in place. There is ever something new to be delighted at.